Worth Every Dime #026
Luxury E-Comm, Julia Stiles, Branding, Ties, Brazilian Modernism, Long Careers, Donna Karan e The New Look.
Já faz um tempo que eu coleciono os artigos interessantes que li aqui na coluna Worth Every Dime no Pick my Brain. Alguns dos periódicos que mais gosto de ler são o NYTimes, a The Atlantic e a NYMag, todos veículos conhecidos e que fazem parte da mídia tradicional. Mas além deles, tenho descoberto aqui dentro do Substack mais e mais autores e também tenho recomendado seus textos aqui. Como sempre menciono, a leitura de bons periódicos enriquece a nossa mente, e por essa razão não considero as assinaturas uma despesa e sim um ótimo investimento em conhecimento e informação. E você, o que leu de interessante recentemente?
Has the Luxury E-Commerce Bubble Burst?
Eu amava a Matches e ainda estou em negação que a loja vai fechar. Em especial a loja física que ficava em uma charmosa casa em Mayfair, Londres era especial… Deixando a decepção de lado aqui vai um bom texto sobre o e-commerce de luxo.
Multibrand e-commerce emerged at a time when the global luxury market was being upended by a move away from exclusivity toward ubiquity. The novelty and excitement of being able to browse and buy beautiful things that will soon arrive at your door held allure for a consumer accustomed to the immediate gratification of the internet age. But a curious thing about online luxury e-commerce was how many players adopted a model that was broken, something reflected in the much publicized woes of department stores in the United States.
Julia Stiles Wanted to Be Just Like Kat Stratford, Too
Eu sou muito fã da Julia Stiles e do filme “10 Things I Hate About You”. Amei esse artigo que fala sobre a carreira da atriz.
Larisa Oleynik, who played Kat’s kid sister, Bianca, recalls rewatching “10 Things” recently. “The thing I love so much — and I’m going to get emotional — is, she’s so earnest,” Oleynik said. “She’s so genuine. And to me, that is the most beautiful thing about Julia’s portrayal of that character. It is coming from a deeply heartfelt, vulnerable, sensitive, insanely intelligent place,” she said, while adding: “I don’t think anyone else would have been able to be that real.”
Have the Brands Gone Too Far? Boston Marathoners Think So.
Não consigo nem imaginar a tristeza de ganhar uma medalha feia como essa. Será que tudo realmente precisa ser “branded”?
Ms. Connor, 58, loves the Boston Marathon so much that she has raced in it nine times. But there is one thing that she, and many of her fellow runners, do not love: the redesigned medal, which will be bestowed upon the 30,000 athletes who finish the 26.2-mile race on April 15.
Elite College Admissions Have Turned Students Into Brands
Falando em branding, aqui vai mais um lugar em que o branding tomou uma proporção questionável…
The idea of a group of middle schoolers soberly mapping out their careers is both comical and depressing, but when I read student essays today, I can see that this advice is getting through. Over the past few years, I have been struck by how many high school seniors already have defined career goals as well as a C.V. of relevant extracurriculars to go with them. This widens the gap between wealthy students and those who lack the resources to secure a fancy research gig or start their own small business.
Three Presidents, No Neckties
Sinto que nasci na década errada e tenho uma certa nostalgia da do vestir ornamentado das eras passadas. Mas recentemente, depois de tantos anos no desuso, vendi a maioria das gravatas do meu marido. Será que vamos sentir falta delas?
Pity the poor tie. Pundits are forever writing its obit. Back in 2022, the doomsayers piled on when, at a G7 summit in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany, world leaders including Justin Trudeau, Emmanuel Macron and Boris Johnson “declared the end of the necktie,” according to Women’s Wear Daily, by posing for a group photo in suits and open-neck shirts.
When Latin America Became the Seat of Modernity
Artigo sobre a exposição maravilhosa de design latino-americano que está no MOMA.
Lina Bo Bardi, the great Italian-Brazilian architect, liked to say we all invent architecture just by climbing a stair, crossing a room, opening a door or sitting down in a chair. All of “these little gestures,” she said, along with the objects they involve, are richly endowed with meaning and memory. Design is life. Life is design. We are its designers. Bo Bardi, of course, was hardly alone in thinking this way, as “Crafting Modernity,” a new exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art, makes plain.
The Unstoppables: Sharing the Secrets of a Lifelong Career
Já tive essa discussão com o meu marido dezenas de vezes: quando vamos nos aposentar? Eu acho admirável pessoas que seguem exercendo suas carreiras ignorando o que a aposentadoria deveria ser.
Why bother? Wasn’t retirement supposed to be the goal of a contented old age? Didn’t the plan call for taking up needlepoint or golf? The old, as it happens, represent a rapidly growing global population: the proportion of those 65 and above is increasing at a faster rate than those below that age, according to World Population Prospects, a United Nations study. Between 2022, when the report was issued, and 2050, the global population of those over 65 is expected to rise from 10 to 16 percent. People are already working longer, and, as they do, it would appear that a road map is needed, a means of understanding what keeps people like Martha Stewart, at 82, not only undiminished by age but actively in the game.
Happy 20th Anniversary, Gmail. I’m Sorry I’m Leaving You.
Falando em carreiras longas, que tal o Gmail?! Nossa tenho ataques de ansiedade quando vejo a minha caixa de email. É o caos instaurado… Mas sigo firme e forte com o meu Gmail, e vocês?
A few months ago, I euthanized that Gmail account. I have more than a million unread messages in my inbox. Most of what’s there is junk. But not all of it. I was missing too much that I needed to see. Search could not save me. I didn’t know what I was looking for. Google’s algorithms had begun failing me. What they thought was a priority and what I thought was a priority diverged. I set up an auto-responder telling anyone and everyone who emailed me that the address was dead.
In the End, ‘The New Look’ Left Us Wanting More
Adorei esse bate-papo entre a editora de estilo e a crítica de moda do NY Times sobre a série The New Look.
I loved the scenes between Mrs. Snow and Mlle. Chanel, who looked so much more modern and at ease in her own clothes than Mrs. Snow looked. It made me reconsider Chanel as a casual brand. I know that the brand was born of Chanel’s wanting more ease and movement and pockets and whatnot, but seeing the elegant costumes on Juliette Binoche gave me a new appreciation for that idea. So I guess, to answer your first question: Yes, it humanized the brands for me.
A Deep Dive Into the Rare ‘90s DKNY Book That Became a Fashion Bible
Meu mundo por uma cópia desse livro. Me peguei suspirando só de ver essas páginas…
It’s a beautiful book that can transform taking the subway into the most majestic form of transportation; that can make wading in morning rush hour seem like a transcendental experience. The shots range from model, to product, to simply a blurred city scene. A stunning woman sitting on her stoop in an undone wool coat with a cup of coffee; a backseat cab shot of a rain splattered windshield; a hunk walking down the street, clutching himself in a leather jacket with fingerless gloves; a tier of fire escapes.